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Pattern cutting

Jun 03, 2020

It's all about the spot and cross...

Once I receive a design from a production company, it would be reasonable to think I would unfurl the relevant fabrics and away I go.
Not a chance.
Before I cut into the cloth, I have to wait for the measurements to arrive – they don’t always turn up at the same time.

Although receiving a person’s measurements are the cornerstone of producing an accurate clothing pattern, it is even better to have an image of the person too. Measurements may not necessarily give you an indication of how the weight is distributed, for example, they may have wide hips and a flat bottom. That’s something you can only see from an image.
Once I have the design, the image and the measurements, I extract only the measurements which matter (I don’t need a chest measurement if I am only making a pair of trousers), then it’s time to unroll the pattern paper.
I prefer spot and cross paper as I like to keep my grainlines spot on!
Sorry, I couldn’t help it.
I also like to use the printed grid system to align and measure my pattern pieces.

Depending on the complexity and historical period of the design, which would determine whether I use one of my existing block patterns, draft a complete pattern freehand, or use a pattern drafting book.
When drafting my pattern, with each revision, I use a new sheet of paper, so if I have any glitches, I can backtrack and review the issue without having to weed through unnecessary lines.
By the time the final pattern is complete, there would be 3 or 4 versions of the pattern. The last version is the best.
Only then, do I start thinking about the fabric.


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